Jispa to Padum by Motorcycle: Day 4 Over Shinku La into Zanskar

Day 4 of our 11-Day Himalayan Motorcycle Tour: Zanskar and Ladakh is the day most riders talk about afterwards. You leave Jispa in Lahaul, climb to Shinku La at about 5,050 m, drop into the Lungnak valley under the rock spire of Gonbo Rangjon, and finish in Padum, the main town of Zanskar. It is the day the tour leaves the usual Manali to Leh highway behind and turns into one of the most remote valleys in India.

This post follows that day as our September 2026 group rode it on 15 September: the route, the heights, the temperatures and the stops along the way.

Day 4 at a glance

• Route: Jispa, Darcha, Shinku La, the Lungnak valley, Gonbo Rangjon, Sani, Padum

• Distance: about 150 km (Darcha to Padum is about 145 km)

• Start: Jispa, about 3,200 m

• High point: Shinku La, 16,580 ft on the summit board (about 5,050 m)

• Gonbo Rangjon: 5,520 m

• Finish: Padum, about 3,670 m

• Bike: Royal Enfield Himalayan 450

• Night: Padum

Leaving Jispa

After a first night above 3,000 m in Jispa, the group is up early. It was about 10°C in Jispa when we rolled out on our September ride: cold in the shade, warm the moment the sun reached the valley floor.

The first stretch follows the Bhaga river north to Darcha, the last village before the climb. This is where the road for Zanskar leaves the Manali to Leh highway.

Our support vehicle travels with the group all day, carrying spares, luggage, water and the mechanic's tools. On a day like this, with a 5,000 m pass and very few villages, it is what lets everyone relax and enjoy the ride.

Shinku La: the gateway to Zanskar

Shinku La is the pass between Lahaul in Himachal Pradesh and Zanskar in Ladakh. The board at the top reads 16,580 ft, about 5,050 m; some sources give a little more. Either way, it is the highest point of the day and one of the high points of the whole tour.

For years only trekkers crossed here. The road over the pass is new, and a tunnel underneath it is under construction, which tells you how much Zanskar is changing. For now, riding over the top still feels like an achievement.

It was about 2°C at the top on our ride, with a cold wind and prayer flags everywhere. We stop for photos, a few deep breaths and a check that everyone feels fine at the altitude.

Gonbo Rangjon: God's Mountain

On the Zanskar side, the road drops into the Lungnak valley and a single rock peak comes into view at the head of the valley. This is Gonbo Rangjon, 5,520 m, rising almost a kilometre above the valley floor.

Local people call it God's Mountain. Its name means "Throne of Gonbo", and it is believed to be the home of Gonbo, a form of the protector deity Mahakala. Whatever you believe, it is hard not to stop and stare.

We stop near its foot by the river for a group photo. It was about 8°C there at midday on our ride.

Lunch in the Lungnak valley

There are very few places to eat between Shinku La and Padum, so lunch is wherever the small dhabas are: a few plastic chairs, hot food, tea and a view of the mountains. Nobody is in a hurry.

The people of Zanskar

The Lungnak valley is one of the least visited corners of Ladakh, and the villages are small and quiet. In every one of them you hear the same greeting: Julley. It means hello, thank you and goodbye all at once.

Further down the valley, whitewashed chortens sit on the ridges above the road, and the riding settles into long, easy stretches with almost no traffic.

Steel bridges carry the road over the side rivers. The water below is grey with glacier melt and loud enough to hear over the engines.

Phuktal, nearby

From the Lungnak valley, Phuktal Monastery is about 52 km south-east of Padum. It is built into the mouth of a cave high on a cliff, and until the new road arrived in 2023 it could only be reached on foot. Many riders ask about it; if time and road conditions allow on a custom trip, it is one of the most remarkable places in Zanskar.

Sani and Padum

Just before Padum we stop at Sani, about 6 km from town. Unlike most monasteries in Ladakh, which sit on cliffs, Sani stands on flat ground where the Stod valley opens into the central plain of Zanskar. It is thought to be one of the oldest religious sites in Ladakh and Zanskar.

Padum, at about 3,670 m, is the main town of Zanskar and its administrative centre. Its name comes from Padmasambhava, the teacher who brought Buddhism to the Himalaya. It was about 13°C in Padum in the early evening on our ride, dropping close to 2°C before dawn.

On our September ride we arrived in the middle of the Zanskar Festival, with music, flags and what felt like the whole valley out on the festival ground.

Dinner at Padum

The day ends the way every good riding day should: a long table, hot food and a lot of laughter. The road captain briefs the group on Day 5, and everyone is in bed early.

Temperatures on Day 4 (15 September 2026)

• Jispa, early morning: about 10°C

• Shinku La, mid-morning: about 2°C

• Gonbo Rangjon, midday: about 8°C

• Padum, early evening: about 13°C, close to 2°C before dawn

These figures come from historical weather data for each place on the day we rode. Expect similar daytime temperatures in summer and colder mornings in late September.

What to wear and carry on Day 4

• Full riding gear with a warm layer and windproof gloves for the pass

• A neck warmer or buff. The wind at Shinku La is cold even in sunshine.

• Sunglasses, sunscreen and lip balm. The light at 5,000 m is strong.

• Water and a few snacks. Food stops are few between Darcha and Padum.

• Some cash. There are very few ATMs in Zanskar.

If you are worried about the altitude, read our guide to what to know before a Himalayan motorcycle tour. Our Manali Leh motorcycle tour guide explains how this route differs from the classic highway.

Where Day 4 fits in the 11 days

• Day 1: Delhi to Manali

• Day 2: Manali preparation day (read the Day 2 post)

• Day 3: Manali to Jispa (read the Day 3 post)

• Day 4: Jispa to Padum over Shinku La, this post

• Day 5: Padum to Lamayuru

• Day 6: Lamayuru to Leh

• Day 7: Leh to Nubra Valley over Khardung La

• Day 8: Nubra Valley to Pangong Lake

• Day 9: Pangong Lake to Hanle over Umling La

• Day 10: Hanle to Leh

• Day 11: Departure from Leh

Questions riders ask about Day 4

How high is Shinku La?

The board at the top reads 16,580 ft, about 5,050 m. Some sources give a slightly higher figure. It is the highest point of Day 4.

Is the road to Padum paved?

Much of the new Darcha to Padum road is paved, but it is a mountain road in a remote valley, and the surface can change with weather and construction. The road captain sets the pace for the conditions on the day.

What is Gonbo Rangjon?

A 5,520 m rock peak in the Lungnak valley, sacred to local Buddhists, who believe it is the home of the protector deity Gonbo. It is right beside the road.

Do we visit Phuktal Monastery?

Phuktal is about 52 km from Padum. It is not part of the standard Day 4 route, but we can include it on a custom expedition.

Is there phone signal and fuel in Zanskar?

Padum has fuel and some phone signal. Between Darcha and Padum there is very little of either, which is why the support vehicle and mechanic travel with the group.

Ride Zanskar in 2027

Our 2027 departures for the 11-Day Himalayan Motorcycle Tour are open, from June to September, each with ten riders at most, a road captain, a mechanic and a support vehicle. Zanskar is changing fast as the new roads arrive. If you want to ride it while it still feels like the end of the world, pick a date on the calendar or write to us.

Next in this series: Day 5, Padum to Lamayuru.